Best places to eat in Mussoorie – Landour

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The lush green hills of Mussoorie

A foodies guide for eateries in Mussoorie

After getting off our bus at Dehradun at around 3:30AM, Saurabh and I, finally reached Landour at the break of dawn. We decided to take a quick nap, before we start our epic walk to Mussoorie’s Mall Road.

The lush green hills, the misty lanes, the serenity of Landour – I instantly fell in love with the hill station. It was my first visit to Mussoorie and for years, I had heard stories about the beauty of this ‘queen of hills’. Beautiful vintage cottages, blooms of spring, chirping birds, monkeys having watermelon and lazy yet ever so cute dogs taking a stroll down the alley – it all felt picture perfect! Barry, Moti, Kalu the furry dogs became our links to the locals, who spoke dearly about growing up in Mussoorie, which was once much more scenic and ‘quiet’. The locals fear, that soon Landour will also lose its tranquility and become a loud tourist hub.

I didn’t quite understand the fear till I reached Mussoorie’s Mall Road after a long but fun walk through the hills. The Mall road was so crowded that there was scarcely any space to walk. The restaurants were full and so were the roadside kiosks.

I visited the famous Lovely Omelet Centre twice and both the times, found myself waiting in the queue for an hour. I went to Kelsang Friends Corner and couldn’t find a table. And, just as I started enjoying listening to the live music at Tavern Bar & Restaurant, it got flooded with families who wanted to talk louder than the singer. So, unfortunately, I couldn’t eat at any of these ‘famous’ restaurants.

However, the good part is that I managed to explore many other fabulous eateries and cafes of Mussoorie and Landour, where I had an amazing time! I ate wonderful delicacies, met interesting people and basically, enjoyed the whole ‘chilling out in hills’ thing.

Here’s my pick of the best places to eat in Mussoorie – Landour:

Emily’s at Rokeby Manor, a vintage English cottage, built in 1840, was my first stop at Landour. Restored to its original glory, the prettiest cafe in town, was beautifully adorned with British artist Emma Bridgewater’s artworks. Visit this place for Breakfast Buffet Cheese Omelet, Cinnamon French Toast, Al Greco Pasta and a Barbeque spread. They bake their own bread, which you can enjoy with a spoon full of Plum Ginger Jam. Sit in the porch and grab a book from their book section and spend a perfectly lazy day in the hills.

 Address: Rajmandi, Landour Cantt, Dehradun, Mussoorie, Uttarakhand, 248179

  • Tip Top shop at Char Dukan

The famous spot at Char Dukan, Tip Top Shop boasts of famous clientele like Sachin Tendulkar. Vipin Prakash, currently oversees the shop, which has been looked after by 4 generations of his family. His grandfather who started the shop served only Bun-Maska. Now after so many years, they serve Cheese Omelet, Bun Anda, Maggi, Waffles, Pancakes, Shakes and The toasted sweet bun with salty melted butter, tasted super delicious, while the banana pancake was fluffy and soft. Ending the meal with a perfect bowl of Maggi, we enjoyed the mist a tad bit more.

Address: Char Dukan, Mussoorie, Landour, Dehradun, Uttarakhand, India

Cafe Ivy is a gem of a place, set in the peaceful environs of Landour. Only a few months old, the café was opened by three friends Ashish, Mohit and Deepanker. A cool new addition to the Char Dukan area, the café is made with recycled wood and furnished with a great mix of vintage chairs, fireplace and contemporary style naked bulbs, that beautifully light up the place. Visit this place for delicious Pizzas, Pastas and Burgers or just for a cup of coffee, while you enjoy the beautiful view of the valley. A perfect little den to enjoy with friends, as you listen to pop music and play some fun board games.

 Address: Char Dukan, Landour Cantt, Mussoorie, Dehradun, Uttarakhand, India

  • Doma’s Inn 

Get your fix of Tibetan food at Doma’s inn. If you want to have clear chicken soup, freshly made steaming hot momos, shaptag with tingmo, Lamen, or chinese food, this is the place to be at. I had the best Spinach and Cheese momos here, better than any other place I have been to. Tenzing Nima owns this spacious café along with his Sikkimese wife. Apparently, he is known for featuring in a Bollywood movie (Kaminey), hence, you would see a lot of movie posters hanging on the walls of the café. Walk in for some steaming hot food Thupka to comfort you in the cold.

Address: Ivy Cottage Landour Cantt, Mussoorie, 248179, India

  • Little Llama Cafe

Don’t go by the name, this place serves no Tibetan food. Lynette, a well-traveled girl has started this café along with her husband Tsering Lama. Together they make amazing pizzas, burgers, shakes, pitas, hummus and pastas. The café on the rooftop looks every bit contemporary with a beautiful view of the valley. Their Blueberry smoothie, Chocolate Fudge Brownie Shake and especially, the Mutton Burger, are a must have! The mutton burger had a delicious filling of fried egg, caramelized onions, coleslaw, fresh lettuce, tomatoes and succulent mutton patty. Truly, the best burger I have had in the recent times.

 Address: 1,London House, Picture Palace, Kulri, Mussoorie, Uttarakhand, 248749

  • Chick Chocolate 

If you happen to be a chocolate lover, this could be your mecca! This 70 years old shop at Mall Road, sells handmade chocolates that will fill your heart with joy. Relish their Almond Chocolate, which exudes a distinct flavour of roasted almonds. Their Kit Kat Shake is thick, fudgey and chocolatey, with richness that one can fall in love with. Truffle, Peanut Butter, Hazelnut, coffee, Ginger Caramel, marzipan and Liquor chocolate, Neelam and Naresh, the lovely couple, serve everything to make you happy.

Address: The Mall Road, Mussoorie, Uttarakhand, 248179

  • Ready to eat Mom’s Kitchen

For home like, affordable food on the busy Mall road, this little counter located right under The Rice Bowl, could be your stop. Rajma Chawal, Kadi Chawal, Pakode and Sandwiches – all sorts of comfort food is here. I saw Devinder Aunty lovingly put dollops of sauces inside the sandwiches but it was the hearty portion of Rajma Chawal that won me over. The half plate, that cost us only Rs. 50 and shared amongst Saurabh and me, ensured that we were good to go. I think it was Devinder Aunty’s Punjabiness, which made us feel at home.

Address: The Mall road, Near The Rice Bowl, Mussoorie, Dehradun, Uttarakhand, India

Only two months old, this English style bakery can make you forget, that you are sitting in a hill station in India. It belongs to Sanjay Narang, who also owns Rokeby Manor. This Mumbai based restaurateur makes sure he gives attention to detail and a unique element to each of his project. Landour Bakehouse looks spectacular and offers delightful spread of desserts. Craving for Croissant and Coffee? This is where you got to be. Peanut Butter Brownies, Battenberg cake, Mother’s Apple cake, Oatmeal Cookies or Muffins, this is a heaven for dessert lovers. The recipes used here are taken from Landour Cookbook curated by Ruskin Bond.

Address: Sisters Bazaar, Landour, Mussoorie, Dehradun, Uttarakhand, India

  • A Prakash & Co.

Started in 1920, this shop at Sister Bazaar is hugely popular for serving the best peanut butter jam and a variety of cheese. Decked up with fresh strawberry jam, plum jam, peanut butter crunchy jam, goat’s cheese, herbed gouda, cinnamon rolls and homemade breads, this place has been serving these goodies since 1950. They have served Nehru’s and many other bigwigs of the country. Their products are available all over Mussoorie and Landour. In fact, the Peanut Butter Brownie at Landour Bakehouse is made with their Peanut Butter Jam.

Address: Sisters Bazaar, Landour, Mussoorie, Dehradun, Uttarakhand, India

  • Anil’s Café

The oldest shop at Char Dukan, Anil’s café enjoys a large number of tourists stopping over here. Sit here and enjoy a simple Garlic and Herb Pizza, with oodles of melted mozzarella cheese. Or you can have regular paranthas and enjoy the music.

Address: Char Dukan, Landour (Cantt), Mussoorie, Dehradun, Uttarakhand, India

  • Kelsang Friends Corner (Dehradun)

Don’t worry if you can’t get a table at Mall Road’s outlet, visit Kelsang at Dehradun. Indulge in Shaptag, Tingmo, Thai Curry – Rice, Mutton Kothe with a glass of Fruit Beer. They also have a café located right below the restaurant, where you can enjoy cakes, burgers.

Address: 88-A, Rajpur Road, Dehradun, Uttarakhand 248001

Besides, these restaurants you can also checkout Café By the way, Casa Mia and The Mudcup at the Mall Road.

While I really enjoyed eating at these eateries in Mussoorie-Landour, how I wish I could eat local Garhwali food as well. The folks at our ITM guesthouse did make some delicious Chicken Curry, Shahi Paneer and Rice, which filled my heart with joy.

So, whenever you’re planning to visit Mussoorrie, you know where you must eat. Believe me, you’ll come back loving the hills more than ever, just like I did.

Read : What to do in Landour for a do-nothing holiday

Also see Best Eateries from: Dharamsala, Manali, Kasol, Leh, Pondicherry



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